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How to Set Up Your Workbench for Gunsmithing: Part 3 Power Tools

In this three-part series, AGI Gunsmith Gene Kelly walks us through the optimal way to set up a workbench to work on guns. In this article, Gene talks about his favorite power tools for gunsmithing.

How to Set Up Your Workbench for Gunsmithing: Part 3 Power Tools

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Editor’s Note: This article was originally published on American Gunsmithing Institute. AGI offers comprehensive courses on gunsmithing at every level. To learn more, visit the American Gunsmithing Institute website.

Click Here for Part 1 of the AGI Gunsmithing Workbench Setup Series

When Gunsmithing day to day, I mostly use hand tools such as screwdrivers, pin punches, hammers along with bench blocks and vises to disassemble, reassemble and adjust the various firearms that I am working on. However, there is one power tool above all others that I use on almost every firearm repair, to cut, grind, drill, polish, and fit parts. The Foredom tool! Frankly, I really can’t imagine gunsmithing without having one. I frequently reach for my Foredom tool as I keep it hanging next to my vise, always within easy reach of my work. Unlike many Dremel tools, the Foredom tool is a variable speed, hand-chuck (get the Jacob’s Chuck version, not the collet one) with a flex shaft drive and a foot pedal speed controller that enables you to carefully control the speed of the chuck while being able to hold the chuck with both hands. This allows you to precisely place the cutter/grinding bit/polishing media/drill exactly where you want it then slowly apply speed so that it doesn't torque out of that spot and damage another area or the firearm’s finish.

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A tool like this is invaluable to a Gunsmith, and you will use it every day, but here is some important information. If you do not understand complete firearms design, function and repair, the improper use of this tool will result in the damage, destruction, and the unsafe modification of firearms. Be Careful! Tools are important but are absolutely useless and even damaging without the proper knowledge of not only how to use them, but exactly what needs to be done, how, and why. For Gunsmithing, just a few of the things that I have used the Foredom to do include:

  • Polish Chambers using a flex tool
  • Re-cut damaged screw heads
  • Polish feed ramps
  • Grind ports and slides for smoother ejection
  • Polish parts for refinishing
  • Drill mounting holes
  • Cut parts to length
  • Fit parts to the proper dimensions
  • Cutout, drill, grind and polish a replacement part from scratch

If you want to be a safe and efficient gunsmith, you need to be certified in professional design, function, and repair (DF&R).  You can get that level of training from the American Gunsmithing Institute.  

So now that you have your bench set up properly and you have gathered the hand tools that you need, after the foredom tool, the next power tool that you will use the most is a belt sander. Using a belt sander is a quick and easy way to shape and fit parts but only after you learn DF&R so that you know exactly how much material you can take off to achieve proper fit and function. While you can start with just about any small bench-top belt sander, when you can afford it, you want to purchase a quick-change belt sander. Such as a Vevor 2” x 82” variable speed commercial grade sander, or a Grizzly Manufacturing “knife maker grinder” with a 2’ x 72” belt, or any of the other brands or models that will meet your needs. The quick-change aspect enables you to quickly change from a coarse 80-grit belt for rough shaping, to a 240-grit belt for fitting, to a 320-grit or finer for finishing and polishing. When you get good at controlling how much you can take off of a part to get the fit you want, a fine grit belt will speed your ability to adjust and fit parts.

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With the right machine a belt change takes less than 30 seconds. So, you can quickly go through the process of roughing, shaping and finishing in minutes. Don’t forget to shop around the used equipment marketplace for belt sanders. Sometimes, you will find good condition machines that originally cost thousands available for a few hundred dollars. While we want to be efficient and not walk all over the shop to simply get a job done, we also don’t want to end up with a lot of dust, grit and junk in our primary workspace. You either want to invest in a pedestal mount for the belt sander or mount it securely on a dedicated bench. It should be at least a few steps away from your primary workbench if possible. A belt-sander will spread fine abrasive power and metal bits in the air around the machine, so having a vacuum or exhaust system is a good idea. When grinding on metal parts, you will find that they get hot fast! So, have a quench bucket of water next to the belt sander. You don’t want to experience the sudden “hot potato” and end up burning your fingers or throwing the part!

Often when making or fitting a part, you will use the belt-sander to take some material off of a part, and then you will “try it” for proper fit. Since you should be taking a small amount off at a time, you may need to go back and forth a few times grinding, testing, grinding again until you get the fit you are looking for. That is another reason you don’t want the belt sander a long way from where you are working as going back and forth takes time. Once you get the hang of it, you will be amazed how often you will use a belt sander, especially if you have a quick-change belt model. When you get better at fitting parts, you can even consider getting a mini or micro belt sander to keep close to your bench as you will only need to take a few thousands off of a part and will be able to do so quickly.




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When I first started gunsmithing, just like most new gunsmiths, I didn’t know exactly how to gauge how much I was taking off of a part, and frankly, I ruined a few. That is just part of the learning curve. So, my advice to you is when you are getting started, go slow and take off less than you think you should and “try it” frequently. I also recommend that you have a dial caliper, micrometer, or some other type of measuring device handy so that you can frequently measure the part and know how much more you have removed with each trip to the belt-sander, grinder, or lathe. Always remember, tools are important, but the most important tool you can have is your knowledge of Firearms Design, Function and Repair. Become a gunsmith and make every day that you work a joy while you make money,  part-time, full-time or as retirement supplemental income!

About the Author:

Gene Kelly is a Certified Professional Gunsmith with more than 40 years of Gunsmithing and Manufacturing experience, he holds a 07 Manufacturing FFL with an SOT, and is the Founder and President of the American Gunsmithing Institute – training gunsmiths for more than 30 years!


If you have any thoughts or comments on this article, we’d love to hear them. Email us at FirearmsNews@Outdoorsg.com.

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